A Week With Small World Adventures in Ecuador

The Journey There

Over the past two decades I have done a fair number of river trips around the world, many of them involving complicated logistics. From figuring out how to paddle the Yangtze River a few months before the gates on the Three Gorges Dam closed, taking a decked tandem canoe down the Grand Canyon, cramming a pack with food and boating gear for a 30 mile hike into the Aniakchak caldera, or navigating the urban and rural roads of Japan in search of whitewater across the country, I've done my share of trip planning. Despite the fun I have assembling the puzzle pieces that collectively make a great adventure, I was looking forward to an entirely new experience: joining a guided trip where all that stuff is taken care of. 

So it was that I found myself in the headwaters of the Amazon on a trip with Small World Adventures, the adventure kayaking company founded two decades ago by Larry Vermeeren in the heart of Ecuador's Quijos River Valley. New owner and friend Guy Erb had encouraged me to come down and check the place out. The trip also represented an unpaid debt by my friend and occasional adventure partner Megi Morishita who sat at the put-in of the Tamagawa in Yamagata, Japan 12 years ago and promised, as my video camera rolled, that if she swan she would owe me a trip to Ecuador—later in the run I captured her on a midstream rock sans boat.

The adventure began by waking up at 4am and a full day of travel from Seattle to Quijto, eventually crashing at the Traveler's Inn sometime after midnight. After breakfast those of us who came in a day early had a chance to get acquainted and explore the city of Quijto.

The Streets of Quito

Day 1: Quijos River Borja Run

Our trip began early Sunday morning when Larry and Greg Dashper met us at the hotel and loaded up the gang, with the majority of the paddlers from Portland and the greater Pacific Northwest region. The vans carried us up and over the 4100m Papallacta Pass and we descended through the clouds and into the Amazon basin.

Loading the van in Quito.

Our van buzzed with anxious anticipation and excitement as we could see challenging whitewater of the Papallacta in the valley below and thus the road scouting began, a wonder our vans didn't tip off the edge of the windy mountain highway as the kayakers all pressed against the window to take in every glimpse of whitewater rapids below.

Road scouting the Papallacta.

Arriving at the Lodge—Cabanas Tres Rios at the confluence of the Borja, Cosanga, and Quijos—we enjoyed a great lunch and outfitted our boats. As someone who travels around the country and typically settles for whatever boat is available—from cramming myself into Emily Jackson's little pink boat for a run down the Cheaoh to Eric Nies's big creeker for a run down the Upper Gauley—it was sure nice to have a boat that fit. I can say the collection of boats lived up to the hype of the most modern and complete fleet of boats in Ecuador [note to Harry: did not see a Hydra Duet so a C2 trip may be a challenge].

Larry overseas boat outfitting at Cabanas Tres Rios

Soon enough it was time to hit the water and our group was led by veteran guide Don Beveridge. We carried our boats down to the put in just steps from the lodge (logistics could not have been more convenient) and several of us peeled out into the first class III rapid on the Quijos. With a couple of holes to avoid it provided a fun and energetic warm up. Others had the option of putting in below as we were cautioned not to take a swim in our first 10 seconds of boating in Ecuador as had happened to one of last week's guests.

Firing up the first rapid in front of the lodge on the Borja Run.

Bouncing down the class III run on the Quijos was great fun and a nice way to get to know the other paddlers in our group and dial in our outfitting. Notable rapids included Pika Piedra and Endless Rapid. At the takeout I got to experience one of the newly discovered joys of a guided trip—the drivers were there at the take-out and before we could peel off our wet boating gear the boats were loaded and strapped down. 

Boats were strapped and loaded before we could finish taking off our drytops.

Day 2 - Lower Oyacachi and Bombon and Lower Runs on the Quijos

After a pounding rain that rattled our cabin roof in the pre dawn hours like a steel drum band, we awoke the next morning to slightly elevated but still moderate river levels. After breakfast we hopped into the vans, with boats already loaded, and set off downstream in search of the day's run. Our guides for the day—Don, Greg, Larry, and Guy—settled on a short stretch of the Lower Oyacachi followed by a run on the Quijos.

Hiking in to the Oyacachi.

We put in at Ejector Seat, a great class IV rapid to start off the day on a bouncy high volume creek run. Don led us through a fun section of boogie water boulder gardens before we came to another steep class IV drop with a fun line that took us down to the confluence with the Quijos.

Megi stylin' Ejector Seat on the Oyacachi.

We continued on down the Bombon section of the Quijos. Notable rapids included "Curvas Peligrosas" an S Turn rapid ending with a basalt wall that marks the entrance to a beautiful gorge. We also ran in formation down "Chuchaqui", a great wave train rapid that became our lunch spot. A couple folks took out at the bridge at Bombon and the rest of us continued on downstream through the first section of the Lower Quijos where we enjoyed "Welcome to the Jungle", "Corner Pocket", and the final rapid, "Gringos Revueltos".

Don demonstrates the line at Gringos Revueltos with grace and precision.

Day 3 - Chaco Canyon of the Quijos River

On our third day we once again enjoyed the convenience of utilizing the put-in at the lodge and quickly sped down the class III section we had boated on the first day. On this day however, our real goal was Chaco Canyon and the big rapid known as El Torro.

The canyon was a spectacular river reach through beautiful basalt with overhanging jungle and the warm-up rapids included Basalt and Bitch Slap. The anticipation reached a crescendo as we pulled out on river left and hopped among the boulders for a view of El Torro, one of the classic bigwater rapids of the Quijos and the defining feature of Chaco Canyon. A solid IV+, the line down center right is surprisingly simple, but plenty of chaotic turbulence on either side can easily distract one from the preferred line at which point you need to hold on and be prepared to ride El Torro. As long as you avoid the nasty pour over on far river left, all ends in a good recovery pool at the bottom right.

Forget about sneaking the hole. Megi sets up for the big hit at the base of El Torro.

We split the group below El Torro and I followed Don as he guided us through Olympic Trials, a great series of three tightly spaced rapids that ended at a beautiful gorge at Puente Fucondo that was our take out for the day. 

The beautiful basalt gorge at Puente Fucondo.

Following our run, we loaded up the vans and headed over the drainage divide into the Napo Valley and made our way to the river town of Tena. A festive vibe filled the air and kayakers from other groups roamed the streets. Like surfers living the Endless Summer, one could quickly tell that kayakers roaming the world in search of good whitewater could find plenty to keep them busy and fulfilled in this historic and friendly river town.

Day 4 - Piatua

Awakening the fourth day in Tena we switched to a fleet of taxis—actually yellow pick up trucks that could carry four boats and paddlers—as we would be venturing up the Piatua and into territory inaccessible by our vans. For this trip we left as one big group—16 paddlers and 6 guides—in what was likely one of the biggest groups the Piatua has ever seen. The run is a relatively new whitewater destination with the construction of a new road up the valley. As we crossed a sketchy suspension bridge, one truck at a time, the reason for switching to smaller vehicles became readily apparent. Just upstream, a massive new bridge was under construction. While kayakers enjoy improved access to this once inaccessible run it comes as a mixed blessing for the infrastructure investments are not for kayakers but rather to accelerate the pace of resource extraction from the basin—driving up the rutted road we could catch glimpses of a pristine river but one was left to wonder how long the exceptional water quality would last.

Platoon of Tena taxis loaded and ready to head up the Piatua River Valley.

At the river we split into three groups and I had an opportunity to join guides Darcy Gaechter and Liam Kirkham who were leading the group of creekers who had been running slightly more challenging runs through the week. Following Darcy down the Piatua was like following one of the regulars down the Upper Yough as she pointed out every hidden boof ("cheesy boofs" in Darcy parlance), slot move (aka poop chutes), and the best line at rapids like Game Changer, Discotheque, and Disposable Ensign. With several miles of fun boulder gardens, but a rather moderate gradient, the river is a great run for aspiring class IV creekers while guaranteed to keep class V veterans smiling. The Piatua offers a little something for everyone.

Joey finding one of the many great boofs on the Pitua.

That evening I sat down with Matt Terry from Ecuadorian Rivers Institute over drinks and pizza as he shared his frustrations and hopes for protecting some of the country's best rivers from development and destruction. While towns like Tena enjoy the benefits of a whitewater industry that may approach $1 million nationwide (at the most generous estimate), it remains but a footnote to the billions of dollars of Chinese investment in infrastructure (hydropower and projects to facilitate resource extraction). So while the country witnesses development in the form of new roads, bridges, rip-rap, dams, the latest Cat heavy machinery—and the incredibly attractive cash flow that comes with all of this—the riparian forest slowly disappears and once pristine rivers become polluted. Monkeys that depend on contiguous patches of forest canopy go the way of the Lorax and fish become a memory. And all of the foreign investment comes with an expectation of repayment in the form of long-term oil contracts at $70/barrel and 7% interest. It's easy to place the blame on the local residents, fueled by greed and an appetite for easy money now, but it's worth reflecting on our own consumerism that fuels our insatiable demand for Chinese products and our role in this ever connected global economy (The Story of Stuff). 

Day 5: Jatunyacu

While the creekers headed out for a day on the Upper Jondachi—a run I hope to catch on a future trip someday—the rest of us hit the Jatunyacu with local guide Tarquino who was proud to show off his home run. The Jatunyacu is the local rafting run with consistently dependable flows and great pool-drop class III rapids. We happily enjoyed bouncy wave trains, some fun surf waves and play boating features, as we danced among the holes—some giving them a wide berth while others crashed through with reckless abandon. The memorable rapids included Pimpilala and Land of 1000 Holes.

Eric enjoying good times on the Jatunyacu.

It was all smiles at the take-out as we basked in the sunshine and enjoyed our lunch while curious local children investigated our kayaks. Across the river excavators sunk their claws into the earth and scooped up gravel for an unknown construction project.

Local kids at the take-out.

Back in the vans we climbed the switchbacks over the pass and through the cloud forest with a seemingly endless expanse of impenetrable jungle below us. Ultimately descending back into the Quijos Valley we were back at the lodge in time for dinner.

After dinner, a hotly contested game of Cuarenta.

Day 6: Cosanga

I have always enjoyed following paddlers down a favorite and treasured local run: Jim Reed on the Miracle Mile, Eric Nies on the Upper Gauley, Adam Cramer on Great Falls, Dave Steindorf on the Tobin reach of the Feather. Those trips are always memorable as your local host takes you on a journey that becomes much more than a river trip as they share a little bit of themselves. So it was on the Lower Cosanga as Larry took a small group of four of us down a run that is obviously one of his special places.

Larry leads us down through Triple Drop on the Cosanga.

Our van climbed up the Cosanga Valley and dropped us off at a classic Ecuadorian suspension bridge and we gathered in the eddy for a few quick warm up strokes before dropping into a jumbled boulder garden that led into Triple Drop. Flows were low but the run was plenty of fun on this class IV creek and the road quickly disappeared from view as we disappeared into the canyon and deeper into the jungle. We hopped out for a quick scout of Random Acts, one of the steeper boulder gardens that served up a few alternate lines. The rest of the run was all boat scouting and included rapids like Whale Eye, Cock on the Rock, and Ménage Rodeo.

Megi hits the line at Ménage Rodeo.

We joined the confluence of the Quijos and pulled out for lunch, a beautiful spot deep in the jungle. From there it was an easy float with fun bouncy class III rapids all the way to the lodge which was our take-out. For me it was another new river (#289 on my life list to be exact), but it was a special day on the water as Larry had the opportunity to introduce me to one of his favorite local runs.

Day 7: Lower Chaco Canyon on the Quijos

The week ended where it began, back on the Quijos. Once again we were able to pick up a new section on a river that is truly one of the world's classic whitewater runs. Gary and Larry each led a pod down as Guy provided sweep. The skies had opened to unleash a downpour but we were all out to get wet anyway. Unlike my own backyard runs, the Quijos is warm and pleasant even when it’s raining. Small streams and gullies burst forth with torrents of muddy water that cascaded down into the canyon where we launched. Rapids included such classics as Rodeo Star, Two Guys Hugging and Tetas and everyone had a great run that came to an end all too soon as we joined the confluence with the Oyacachi and reached our take-out.

The heavens unleash a downpour as we venture down the Quijos River.

While some were staying for a few more days or even another week of boating, the trip came to an end for many of us. We enjoyed a final lunch back at the lodge and then began the trek back over the mountains to Quito. With great rivers, good food, and guides that have intimate knowledge of the local runs, the whole trip was a great experience. I hope to get back again some day.

The end of the trip.

More Pictures From Our Trip

Participants

Winter Whitewater Class IV-

Eric Bessette, Bellevue, WA

Peter Eisner, Tucson, AZ

Carrie Horner, Portland, OR

Genny Kiley, Barton, OR

Kenny Kiley, Barton, OR

Megi Morishita, Newport, OR

Thomas O'Keefe, Seattle, WA

Kathleen O'Malley, Newport, OR

Maren Vikan, Portland, OR

Advanced Creeking IV+

Brandon Bloomquist, Hillsboro, OR

Shannon Crosswhite, Portland, OR

Alex Dey, Portland, OR

Craig Hermes, Scapoose, OR 

Zachery Horner, St. Paul, OR

Joey Thomas, Portland, OR

Michael Williams, Portland, OR

Guides:

Don Beveridge

Josh Brewer-Smith

Greg Dashper

Guy Erb

Darcy Gaechter

Liam Kirkham

Larry Vermeeren

Western River Tour

I spend a lot of time in meetings talking about rivers, thinking about how they should be managed, and negotiating agreements that balance the ecosystem services that our nation's waterways provide. It's always good to take some time to go out and see rivers, talk to people who live and work along them, spend time with river managers and business owners, fish and play on the water, and experience the diversity of rivers our country has to offer. With that in mind my son Aki and I set off on a 19 day journey to explore rivers. Here are a few of the places we went.

Day 1: We spent our first day on the road driving through the Columbia basin along the Yakima, Spokane, and Clark Fork Rivers. We made this stop at Post Falls where the Spokane River begins at the Washington/Idaho border at Coeur D'Alene (pictured above). The dam at the falls is part of the hydropower projects operated by Avista along the Spokane River that are currently being relicensed with the federal government.

Day 2: On our second day we crossed the continental divide and entered the Mississippi drainage. We drove along the Missouri River to Great Falls along the route that Lewis and Clark traveled (pictured above). We saw lots of people fishing and floating the river and made a stop at Great Falls. The falls are altered by a series of dams and reservoirs. We had made arrangements in Fort Benton for a canoe to take us down the Upper Missouri River and launched in the late afternoon.

Day 3: We emerged from our tent on the banks of the Missouri River and spent the whole day floating through the Missouri Breaks National Monument (pictured above). This is one of the few remaining sections of a free-flowing Missouri River that is completely undeveloped. We followed along with excerpts from the journals of Lewis and Clark and watched the scenic tapestry unfold before us as in a George Bingham painting. (Read and See More of Our Trip)

Day 4: We finished our float on the Missouri River around lunch time and then set out east across Montana on Highway 200. A highlight for Aki was a small town we passed through in Garfield County where they had a cast of a complete fossilized Triceratops that was discovered on one of the nearby ranches. I think we will be back someday to do the dino trail. As we headed into North Dakota we crossed the Yellowstone River (pictured above). At 671 miles it is the longest undammed river in the lower 48 and the principal tributary for the Missouri River.

Day 5: We had pulled in late the evening before to Theodore Roosevelt National Park along the banks of the Little Missouri River (pictured above). We spent the morning exploring the countryside and scenic geology along the river. We then continued down the Missouri River stopping at the Mandan Village site where Sacagewea and Charbonneau joined the Lewis and Clark expedition. We continued along the river to Bismarck where we set out east along the interstate.

Day 6: After a few hours on the road we came into St. Paul and started exploring the Mississippi National River (pictured above). We spent some time along the river and then headed down to Hastings which is a significant site as the first formal proposal for a hydrokinetic project on the Mississippi River at Lock and Dam Number 2. Hydrokinetic projects generate power through current and the proposed project would be at the outlet of the lock

Day 7: We took a break from rivers but did splash around in Lake Wingra in Madison Wisconsin. Our friends Helge and Laurieann were married and that was the main activity for the day (pictured above). A couple dozen paddlers were present for the occasion and the reception turned into a planning session for future trips and expeditions.

Day 8: The Wisconsin River is one of the Midwest's great river trips (pictured above). I have done sections of the lower Wisconsin several times and it is simply one of the most outstanding canoe trips in the country. The river flows through Aldo Leopold country and several islands and beautiful sandy beaches make for great camping and picnic opportunities. Steve, Paul, and I all brought our kids along and our friend Megi joined in the fun as well. (Read and See More of Our Trip).

Day 9: I spent most of the day cleaning and repacking the car as we prepared for our trip home. We drove up to the Mecan River and Aki did spend some time splashing in the water with Harry and Jan's dog.

Day 10: I grew up trout fishing and it was great to introduce my son Aki to the sport for the first time (pictured above). The Mecan River is a classic trout stream in central Wisconsin and we were up early so Aki could catch our breakfast. We spent a day exploring this stream in the Fox River drainage (Read and See More of Our Trip).

Day 11: The Fox River was the industrial waterway that transported and processed the timber from Paul Bunyan's northwoods. With some of the oldest hydropower in the country the river continues to be a working waterway (pictured above). The Kaukauna Project is currently trying to negotiate a new license so they can rebuild their power plant and local paddlers contacted me expressing concerns over what this would mean for recreational opportunities on the river. I came out for a site visit with project operators, agency staff, and local stakeholders to learn more about the project and the issues at stake.

Day 12: We spent most of the day driving and finally found our way back at the Missouri River, although at a point further downstream than where we had been the week before. We traveled along the section of the river between Gavins Point Dam and Fort Randall Dam which is a beautiful section of the river (pictured above). We plan to come back someday to further explore this section by canoe.

Day 13: In a region where many of the rivers have been transformed by irrigation and dams, the Niobrara remains as one of the last free-flowing rivers of the Great Plains. It flows east across the northern half of Nebraska before it joins the Missouri River on the border with South Dakota. Aki and I spent a full day on the river paddling over 25 miles, exploring waterfalls, swimming in the river, and generally enjoying this wonderful river (Read and See More of Our Trip).

Day 14: After stopping in to meet with the folks at the National Park Service who manage the Niobrara Wild and Scenic River we continued across the state and followed the river to its headwaters. We stopped at Agate Fossil Beds National Monument where the river is just a narrow channel that passed through irrigated agricultural lands (pictured above).

Day 15: We crossed Wyoming and climbed over the pass into the Headwaters of the Snake River, a major tributary of the Columbia River that originates in Yellowstone National Park. We spent the day traveling through the Grand Teton National Park where the Snake flows along the base of the Teton Range (pictured above).

Day 16: We linked up with my friend Dave who is the Forest Service manager for the Snake River as it flows through Alpine Canyon downstream of Jackson, WY (pictured above). Dave and his wife took their young daughter and my son Aki down in a raft. I had an opportunity to kayak and we all had a great day on the water. Legislation is pending in Congress to designate the Snake and major tributaries under the Wild and Scenic Rivers Act (learn more about the Campaign for the Snake Headwaters). Time is running short to pass the legislation in this Congress but it has been packaged with a number of public river and land bills under the Omnibus Public Land Management Act of 2008 (S. 3213).

Day 17: From a river perspective Yellowstone is a pretty fascinating place. Rivers that include the Missouri, Snake, and Yellowstone all have their origin in the Park. We spent the day exploring the Yellowstone River, which we had crossed earlier in the trip closer to its mouth with the Missouri. The overlook at Artist's Point is one of my favorite places in any of our National Parks (pictured above). The place is significant because the dramatic view was captured by Thomas Moran in vivid paintings that were an instrumental component of Congressional testimony that led to the creation of our nation's first national park in 1872. Congress appropriated $10,000 for the purchase of Moran's painting, The Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone which now hangs in the Renwick Museum just a couple blocks from the Whitehouse.

Day 18: We had plans to travel out along the Firehole River which is a major tributary of the Madison which then becomes the Missouri. The headwaters are well known for the famous geysers of Yellowstone and we were lucky enough to catch Beehive Geyser as we were passing through (pictured above). It is one of the most impressive geysers in the Park and we enjoyed a great show. We headed back to Missoula crossing over the divide into the Clark Fork drainage. Along the way we passed the massive restoration effort where Milltown Dam is being removed and the confluence of the Blackfoot with the Clark Fork is being restored (a Video from my colleague who filmed the restoration of flow to the river channel). I finished off the day with my friend Molly and a paddling trip through Alberton Gorge. Aki spent the evening learning to skip rocks with Kevin.

Day 19: Our last day on the road, Aki and I stopped in to meet with our friends from Save Our Wild Salmon and talked about recreational opportunities a restored Snake River might provide. Aki splashed about in the Spokane River and then we cruised across the state and were home in time for dinner.

Enjoying the Wisconsin River

I've done a lot of river trips around the country and the Wisconsin River is one of my favorites for just hanging out and enjoying the river. Great beaches, warm water, fun people watching, and almost 100 miles of free-flowing river to explore. My son and I were on a trip across the country visiting rivers and we joined up with some of our friends for a day trip and picnic on the sandy beaches.

On hot summer days hundreds of canoes travel down the river. There are several outfitters along the river but Wisconsin is a state with a rich canoe culture and it seems that just about everyone has an old aluminum Grumman under a tarp in the backyard.

Charlie, Maria, and Aki all piled into a canoe together and had a great time floating down the river together.

It wasn't long before Charlie was showing off proper technique with his water canon.

Armed and ready for action the boys fired at each other and ran themselves to exhaustion.

The boys found little fish and freshwater clams and everything became a target.

Including women out trying to enjoy the sun.

And here he comes after the camera man.

Meanwhile Maria kept out of the cross fire and enjoyed playing in the sand.

The beaches are a highlight of this river and spring floods wash them clean and redistribute the sand every year. While many large floodplain rivers have highly regulated flow regimes and encroachment of vegetation that crowds out open sandy beaches, the Wisconsin still has a dynamic flow regime along its lower reaches.

Megi and Paul hanging out the river. Although we were just out on a day trip, you can easily spend several days out on the water and camp on one of the many islands along the way.

Steve enjoying a moment with his daughter Maria as he paddles down the Wisconsin River.

The masses out for a day on the water. With forested shores, numerous public access points, and great camping and picnic sites along the way, paddlers of all stripes can enjoy their journey down this great river.

Missouri River

Recently my son Aki and I went on a tour of Western rivers. A highlight of our trip was a journey through Missouri Breaks National Monument on the Upper Missouri Wild and Scenic River. Congress designated the Wild and Scenic river in 1976 and President Clinton established the National Monument in 2001. Lewis and Clark followed the Missouri River on their journey west and it is about the only long section left that has not been extensively developed or inundated by reservoirs.

Aki and I on the banks of the Missouri River. We spent three days on the Upper Missouri River from Coal Banks Landing (48.0321, -110.2350) to Judith Landing (47.7388, -109.6230).

Entering the White Cliffs section of the Missouri River, one of the most scenic sections of the river at Eagle Creek (47.9128, -110.0580). This is the most popular camping area along the river and the site of Lewis and Clark's camp on May 31, 1805.

The White Cliffs of the Missouri. Over 200 years ago Lewis wrote, "The hills and river Clifts which we passed today exhibit a most romantic appearance.... The bluffs of the river rise to hight of from 2 to 300 feet and in most places nearly perpendicular; they are formed of remarkable white sandstone which is sufficiently soft to give way readily to the impression of water..."

My son Aki yelling up at the cliffs and listening to the echo. This approach did not result in many wildlife viewing opportunities but Aki had announced at the beginning of the trip that he wanted to see a snake, bugs, and fish which we accomplished. We even saw a beaver emerge from his lodge one evening.

A pair of canoes pass beneath the shadow of LeBarge Rock. It is an intrusion of dark igneous shonkinite named for one of the river's steamboat captains.

The hike up Neats Coulee sometimes called "The Narrows" is highly recommended and we had a great time exploring this slot canyon.

This hike takes you right into the Virgelle Sandstone formations along the river.

A butterfly we saw on our hike up the Narrows.

The river flows through open grasslands and one needs to be on guard for rattlesnakes--we came across a large one. Once harvested as fuel for steamboats on the river, the cottonwoods have come back in beautiful groves along the river.

Grand National Wall is a vertical shonkinite dike that intruded into the sandstone which has eroded away. I highly recommend Schumacher and Woodward's book Magnificent Journey which chronicles the geology of the Missouri Breaks.

The river flows through rangeland so as is characteristic of many rivers across the west you see a fair number of cattle along the way.

Dark Butte is another shonkinite plug that rises up through the sandstone.

The Citadel, captured in a well known illustration by Swiss artist Karl Bodmer in his early explorations of the river.

A canoe traveling down the river. The tranquil pace evokes images and feelings that one has entered a George Bingham painting. There are few places that one can directly experience the landscapes of the American West captured in 19th century American Art but the Missouri Breaks is one of those places.

Passing beneath the cliffs as we make our way down to the confluence with the Judith River.

Aki enjoyed the warm waters of the Missouri River and hopped out of the canoe a couple times to just float along with the current.

Sunset over the Missouri River.